The Gatekeeper is still white, though - I found some flash lines I hadn't noticed pre-primering, so I filed them off and I'm waiting for a low-humidity day to get started on her again.
The middle guy is mostly done - he needs edging on his armor, a wash, and some eye and face highlights. Then he's done. The eyepatch dude is mostly base coated except for the detail around the head. The thief is partly base-coated. The downside to starting in white is that some of my dark tones take 2-3 extra coats, like the base brown for his checkerboard coat. It'll look better than if I started with black once I finish - but it will take longer to finish.
You keep mentioning 'low humidity days'... do you not have air conditioning, or do you leave your minis in an non-ac area (like the garage) until they are dry?
ReplyDeleteI ask because I live in Orlando, FL... we never have low humidity days and I never have issues with my drying (I bring them inside to dry after spraying them in the garage - and of course it being Florida, everyone has ac).
It's not the drying, it's the primering and sealing. I have to do that outside - no garage, no "inside" area where I'd be comfortable spray-painting. So I need the humidity low enough that I don't get frosted minis.
DeleteThree words and one hyphen:
ReplyDeleteBrush-on primer
Can you recommend a good one?
DeleteI haven't found one I liked in a long time, and automotive primer is both cheap and really easy for when I prime 10-12 minis all at once. But I could use a brush-on for some minis.
"I have to do that outside" and "automotive primer"...
DeleteI believe I've identified two of your problems. Maybe.
1 - Never prime or seal in direct sunlight. So you might need to hang a sheet or get under an awning or large outdoor umbrella or something. Sunlight causes the primer and sealer to dry too quickly. So if you're having issues when you think you shouldn't, that might be it.
2 - I don't know what type of primer you're using or type of paint (enamel, acrylic, etc) but it helps if you use the correct primer for the correct paint and the correct sealer for the paint. Now I know people who use enamel primer for everything (it won't dissolve with certain metallic and alcohol diluted paints, unlike acrylic primers) and they swear there is no issue with this, however, the sealer needs to match the paint.
3 - Are you using a Fine Mist Nozzle* on your spray primer and sealer? If so (and I recommend you use one if you aren't, regardless - they just work better for miniatures) you might just need to get a little closer to the miniature to prime and seal if you can't work in the cool shade.
* Citadel uses this type of nozzle on it's Primer and Sealer cans, not sure if any other miniature paint supplier does. I doubt the automotive primer does.
Honestly, if I spray-prime or spray-seal when it's below 60% humidity and under 90 (under 80 being much better), I don't have any problems with the primer I have now.
DeleteI really think my problems are "it's often quite humid here, because of the nearby river" and "it's been really hot lately" than needing a different approach. It's been working very well except for those conditions . . . which is why I'm hoping Dammann has a good brush-on recommendation a I can prime sometimes in between.
"Honestly, if I spray-prime or spray-seal when it's below 60% humidity and under 90 (under 80 being much better)"
DeleteI live in Florida... so I don't understand this below 60% humidity you speak of...
I spray them outside and then bring them in immediately and let them dry inside. I've never had issues.
Vallejo had a good brush on at one point, but it has been ages since I've used it. I haven't had priming issues here by the two rivers with Krylon primer, but I do avoid doing it at the most humid.
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